There is no getting around the need to experiment, however the following should work as guidelines when building your own PETG configurations.PETG has been a difficult filament for me… and your post is the first that covers a lot of in-depth content. I also have a genuine Prusa with no enclosure.

Fine Tune the Retractions to Prevent Oozing.

The former is the latest model that runs around $749 and the Prusa i3 is just a design utilized by a lot of 3D printers. I’ve installed a Micro Swiss all metal and am having good luck with it, so far no jams or plugs (knock on wood).

It was written a couple years ago with my Maker Select in mind, which uses a Direct Drive hotend and has some slight differences from Bowden hotend settings (like what the Ender-3 has) but the large majority is applicable to both types.The main difference between Direct Drive and Bowden is the retraction settings, where 0.5 to 1.0 distance is good for DD, but 3.5 to 4.0mm distance seems to be the sweet spot for Bowden. I’m slowly tuning my PETG. Glycol modifies the properties of PET, so that it’s when printing with semi-transparent variants.

Some say an enclosure helps. With the help you have provided here I am well on my way to much better prints. Prints look so much better now. We recommend printing the first few layers without the cooling fan to prevent warping and half fan power on after that.If you’re in need of a durable part, increase the number of perimeters rather than increasing the infill percentage as the majority of a 3D print strength comes from its outer shell.Thanks to strength and durability, PETG is a great choice for mechanical parts. The higher powered fan causes the plastic to set quickly, which prevents the bridges from sagging and overhangs from warping at the edges.Printing PETG successfully is all about finding the right balance of settings. In addition to that, PETG is . I cold be wrong.The biggest breakthrough I had with both was changing to Slic3r Prusa edition.My overhangs are killer an bridging (stretching between 2 points) works great too.All I do now is select default settings for each material, enable “detect bridging” and everything just works.The reason I changed from Cura to Slic3r was because of some surface defects I was getting in Cura.Guys in another forum explained how to fix it, but by that time I was already hooked on Slic3r.If you like I can try to print that fan part using the esun transparent orange petg, stock settings and see what comes out.As someone who has NO IDEA what they are doing with PETG, can I just say THANK YOU to people like you who help me avoid at least some of these headaches!!

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It is widely used in the manufacturing industry for functional components, where it can be injection molded, vacuum formed and even 3D printed. I'm pretty satisfied with the improvements obtained by reducing the fan speed and the quality of the suspended structures thankfully to the addition of the support interface and the extra distance: not the easiest supports to remove, but definitely the best aesthetic result so far.

I have printed PETG temperature towers that were impossible to break by hand. Much more fan and the surface is very matt and the parts have little strength.PETG printed with low/no fan will be exceptionally strong. Definitely let me know how it goes for you, PETG is amazing to use once you get it printing correctly!Have yet to find optimal printing surface. The amount of cooling should be chosen based on the purpose of the part.As can be seen in the image, bridges and overhangs will suffer without proper cooling.

Fan Speed: The cooling fan speed is described in depth above but make sure the first layer is set to 0% to ensure proper adhesion.

Abrasivity. Every spool of filament is different to some degree, but it will include the Manufacturer’s optimal working temperatures listed on the side. For the remaining layers, choose the fan speed based on the purpose of the part. I’m currently trying to get my Ender 3 to print PETG and you have helped me a BUNCH. Will have to put the sides/top on the printer to try again. You can fight this with increasing retraction and playing with hotend temperature, but if you use our filament presets in , we already did that for you and the amount of stringing is minimal. The higher filament temperature will aid extra strong layer adhesion. Its use is universal but especially suitable for mechanical parts and both indoor and outdoor use.

I often use both got ABS (which I like a lot). I look forward to printing better with PETGI’m glad to hear that it helped, appreciate the feedback as well. It sets the temps I ask for every time. And I do get warping sometimes. You can use the glue stick as a separator however, a better choice is a window cleaner.Pour a small amount of window cleaner on an unscented paper towel and wipe the print surface. You can still print PETG with a PTFE tube lining but it will deteriorate over time.I’ve been trying to find the right settings for months now (always gave up and returned to PLA) but after setting it exactly like you recommend it magically workedI’m thrilled, have so many unused PETG and a long queue of printsThat is fantastic!

Next test will be reducing retraction as per @SHENKOE suggestion and then give a try to the … While you can still print PETG at the lower end of the recommended spectrum, this will greatly accelerate the wear of the PTFE liner. If it is just a Prusa i3, you may want to check and find out what hotend is installed.

PETG in comparison is both strong and flexible while also being completely safe to print. It is an excellent choice for printing mechanically stressed parts. If it is cleaned when already preheated for PETG, keep in mind that the cleaner will evaporate before it can clean anything. Lower fan speeds for strength and higher fan speeds for aesthetic items. Yes.

It’s almost as easy to print as PLA, but it can offer many mechanical properties that PLA prints just cannot achieve.The G in the acronym PETG stands for Glycol which is added during the manufacturing process. Although I found Hatchbox to be the easiest to print, the surface quality was somewhat mediocre and often had a rather bland finish. This plastic is not designed for excessive temperatures, where it will begin to degrade at 245C and becomes toxic at 260C.